Friday, April 27, 2018

Spelunking through the AGA


Research in the Archivo General de Administración is a collaborative effort



Many years ago (in 2006, if I remember correctly) I bicycled from Ghent to Amsterdam and back, on a route of more or less my own devising. One of the subtle differences in cycle culture that I noticed in Belgium and Holland (or more accurately in neighboring Flanders and Zeeland) had to do with signage. In the Netherlands, the bicycle paths were all (at least in theory) extremely well marked, and anyone with a map or a general sense of geography could barely get lost, which meant that those of us poor fools who stopped at crossroads had people whiz past us at speed on their bikes. In Flanders, the signs were considerably less comprehensive, but it was impossible to stop for more than thirty seconds at a crossing without another bike rolling to a stop beside you and saying (usually in English) “Are you lost? Can I help you find something?” The better signs meant less informal assistance between cyclists, and the more cryptic indications meant a friendlier camaraderie among those who were trying to puzzle them out.

I have found that the Archivo General de Administración is like Flanders to the nth degree. The finding aids are cryptic to the point of unintelligibility even when they are not frankly inaccurate. But the staff are lovely and helpful, and I have the advantage of working alongside a fellow researcher (and former Fulbrighter), who is doing something completely unrelated. Yesterday she came over and knelt by my desk, whispering, “I think I've found some associations that might be useful for you” and provided me with a bunch of box call numbers. In return, I have noted the boxes where her subject pops up, and have been carefully passing the information along to her. And meanwhile the friendly archivists look at the call numbers and say “¿estás interesada en prensa?” based purely on the boxes you are requesting, and their memories of previous call requests. (My former-Fulbright-friend said she was greeted on her arrival with another grant this year with the assurance that “the good news is that no one has looked at your boxes since you were here two years ago. The bad news is they're still not better catalogued.”) All of us are wandering in a labyrinthine collection of tens of thousands of boxes with probably millions of individual documents that would make Jorge Luis Borges himself dizzy, like his bibliotecarios de Babel we leave little flare guns and notes and helpful hints for each other, which makes research at once slower and less productive, but tremendously more fun and social.

Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Feliz día del libro!

My day of helicopters, blue fingers, and lilacs


I woke up this morning to the alarm and a WhatsApp from my Complutense mentor wishing me "feliz día del libro."  As April 20 was the "noche de libros" in Madrid, and I knew we were coming up on the anniversary of Cervantes' and Shakespeare's death, I wasn't totally surprised.  Today is also I believe Sant Jordi in Catalunya, when people burn furniture (don't ask), and also booksellers have major book fair events.  (You're not supposed to burn the books.  It's just a coincidence that the patron saint of Catalunya and the Day of the Book coincide.  Given that he's a patron saint in England as well, perhaps St. Jordi/Saint George watches over language use generally.)

Saturday, April 21, 2018

Alcalá de Henares in sunshine and rain

One of the (many) posts I meant to do but didn't, and today's new research adventures

 
Alcalá de Henares in cold March rain

I traveled for the second time to Alcalá de Henares on Thursday (and the third time on Friday), to consult the mysteriously named Archivo General de Administración, which sounds like something from Yes, Minister, and actually appears to be something a bit more sinister and Orwellian.  My quest involved getting up early and taking the cercanías, and then spending three exhausting but fascinating hours in the archives (until they closed at 2:30), and then lunch in beautiful summery weather in an outdoor café, and a brief trip to the Casa-Museo Cervantes.  The sunshine and open museums and general holiday atmosphere outside the archives was a funny contrast to the first time I went to Alcalá, almost exactly one month ago, also for professional reasons, to give a lecture at the university.  I had a productive professional time and a very interesting tourist time there then too, but it was Monday (so many things were closed), and pouring rain, and quite cold.  My poor wet feet were very sad and chilly in March.  The only thing that happened in April was that I wanted to stop and buy a coke before the train home because I was mildly thirsty after walking around in the sun.  What a difference a month makes.

Thursday, April 19, 2018

Getting back to work...

 

Time is slipping away...


It's been a while since I've blogged, although I've been thinking about doing it a lot lately.  Some of that is down to having a series of house guests in fairly close succession, which means getting to be a tourist and going around with people and showing them fun stuff (and also four wonderful days in Alicante, which are probably worth several entries that they probably won't get).  Some of it is exhaustion after writing a lot quickly to try to finish a piece of fiction so I can get back to my thesis.  And some of it is (surprise!) actual thesis work -- which I've realized I can't put off any longer, since tomorrow marks the two month count-down to my return to New York (though I'll probably be back in Madrid over the summer, especially toward the end of July to finish up dealing with apartment stuff, as well as just enjoying being here without work, as always).  So this is a transitional entry, mentioning briefly a bunch of stuff that has happened, and acknowledging that I won't get all of it down, and hoping to do better going forward, in the very small amount of time that is left.